Hiking Kilimanjaro via 7-Day Machame Route

Hiking to the top of Kilimanjaro still feels like a surreal achievement. The months of altitude training and collecting appropriate gear went by fast, and before we knew it, it was time to hike Africa’s highest peak. Everyone was in a panic. How could we possibly make it to the top? Had we trained enough? What were we thinking?! Somehow, we made it to the top. It was not only one of the most difficult things I’ve ever done, but also one of the most fulfilling.

Top Climbers Expedition was the hiking company recommended to us by a friend who had hiked Kilimanjaro the previous year. We decided to tackle the 7-day Machame Route. There were seven people in our group and a total of 24 people who helped us up the mountain – 3 guides, 1 cook, and 20 porters. We wouldn’t have made it to the top without every single one of them.

Day 1 Machame Gate to Machame Camp

5,905 ft to 9,301 ft

Top Climbers picked us up in a big van outside Weru Weru River Lodge. Our guide Daudi snapped a group picture and said “Wow, you’re all so clean!” We laughed, knowing it would be seven days until any of us took a shower.

The drive to Machame Gate took about an hour. At the gate we officially checked in for the hike and ate a boxed lunch. It took time for the porters to finalize everything, and just as we started to get antsy our guides Daudi, Hijab, and Chunga said it was time to begin. We geared up and started hiking in the rain.

Kilimanjaro is divided into several different climate zones, all changing with the elevation. The first day is 6.7 miles of constant, gradual uphill through rain forest. After hiking one mile up a wide gravel road the guides told everyone to move to one side of the trail. Confused, we shuffled to one side, and two men carrying huge bundles on their shoulders sped by us. This was our first look at just how hard the porters work to get people to the top of Kilimanjaro.

As the day wore on the trail narrowed and everyone walked single-file. Every few minutes someone would yell “on your left!” and a porter would zoom by. Our guides would yell “Sippy Sippy!” and everyone would take a big drink of water. Water was key on Kilimanjaro and our guides warned us “You must drink 3 liters every day.” The guides also stressed going slowly up the mountain. “Pole, Pole means slowly, slowly. The slower we go, the better everyone will do.” So we walked slowly and drank lots of water.

The rain forest was beautiful, and even though it was raining it was not cold. Spirits were high and our group got into a rhythm of “Sippy Sippy!” “Pole Pole!” and “On your left!” Porters would shoot past us, other groups would gain on us, and the rain never stopped.

After six hours we made it to Machame Camp. Orange tents were lined up in neat little rows and a big blue mess tent was pitched comfortably next to them. The porters came rushing over to strip off our wet clothes. Being a stubborn group, there were cries of “No, I can take off my own boots!” but the porters didn’t listen. They took off our gators, boots, gloves, rain jackets, and rain pants, and kindly shoved us into our tents.

After changing into dry clothes our host Rama brought out bowls of hot water and soap for “washy washy.” It was lovely giving my sweaty face a good wash. Rama announced dinner was ready and we made our way to the mess tent.

Dinner always started with hot soup. Leek, cucumber, zucchini, squash, and ginger soup were some of the offerings. As an appetizer we reminded each other to take Diamox (altitude medicine). For dinner we would have pizza, pasta, chicken, stew, noodles, and other various things. Dessert was always fruit, and there was plenty of hot water for cocoa or tea. Rama took great care of us and always made us laugh. “Rama means King in Thai,” someone in our group observed. “Thank you for everything, King Rama!”

King Rama

After dinner the guides went over the next day’s itinerary. They also took our blood pressure and oxygen levels. “How much water did everyone drink today?” Chunga asked. Shamefully, all but one of us had only drank a liter of water. “Tomorrow, you will do better,” he informed us. “You must drink three liters of water.” After a successful, albeit wet, day we all went to bed stuffed and happy.

Day 2 Machame Camp to Shira Camp

9,301ft to 12,303ft

After sleeping like logs, King Rama greeted each tent with a hot cup of tea or coffee. Mornings were always mayhem as everyone tried to organize their gear before breakfast. Breakfast was porridge followed by toast, crepes, and a variety of eggs. Bellies full, our group geared up. “Remember to drink 3 liters of water today!” Daudi yelled as we scrambled to get ready.

It was a gorgeous morning! The sky was clear and we got our first glimpse of Uhuru Peak (the top of Kilimanjaro). Our group began 30 minutes behind schedule but we were in a great mood. Today, the trail left the rain forest behind and scrambled up through moorlands. It was steep, and rain from the day before made the rocks slippery. “Pole Pole!” our guides would yell when someone slipped.

The going was tough and the views were beautiful. Mount Meru was hovering in the distance above the clouds. “Mount Meru isn’t as tall as Kilimanjaro but the hike is more difficult,” our guides explained. “It’s also very common to see jaguars.”

Our guide Daudi with Mount Meru in the background

The 3.4 mile day feels longer because of the steep incline. Not even half way through the clouds rolled up the mountain and it stated to rain. Eventually the trail leveled out, but rain made the rocky terrain very slippery.

The view may have been incredible but the fog was so thick there was nothing to see. It was also starting to get cold. Still, we made it to camp with enough time for tea before dinner. King Rama served us hot drinks and freshly made popcorn. We warmed up over tea and a few games of Uno.

Just before dinner King Rama beckoned us out of the mess tent. Every team member gave an energetic introduction and they began singing “The Kilimanjaro Song” to us. The Kilimanjaro song is actually a general African welcome song, but it’s wonderfully catchy and our group memorized it by the end of the trip. Next, they sang a song about missing their favorite things. “I miss ze shower,” Daudi sang. “I miss ze beer.” It was great fun!

After dinner the guides went over everyone’s water intake. While we had done slightly better than the day before, only two people had drank the entire three liters of water. The guides stressed, “Tomorrow it is very important to drink three liters.” After checking blood pressure and oxygen levels again we went to bed sleepy and happy.

Day 3 Shira Camp to Lava Tower to Barranco Camp

12,303ft to 15,091ft to 12,992ft

Sunrise scattered soft colors across the sky and Uhuru peak hovered above us. It was another gorgeous morning, but today’s hike to Lava Tower was known to be difficult. People really start feeling symptoms of altitude at 15,091 feet.

There was no scrambling involved in today’s 6.7 mile hike, just a constant uphill climb. The views only got better and Uhuru Peak made a gorgeous appearance early on in the day. Several other groups passed us as we took our time to enjoy the morning.

Moods were really starting to lift when, like clockwork, fog rolled in and the views disappeared. As gloomy as it was, we put one foot in front of the other and sippy sippy’d all the way to Lava Tower.

Lava Tower was hardly visible through the fog, but thankfully we were done with the uphill portion of the day. About half the group felt normal and the other half had symptoms of altitude – headaches and general sluggishness. We were treated to a hot lunch, but altitude suppresses appetite and King Rama eyed us dubiously when he saw our leftovers. “You must eat perfectly,” he urged us. “We’ve been eating three meals a day for three days straight,” we argued, “and can’t eat anymore!”

After lunch it started raining hard. The downhill part of the day went well, but about a mile from Shira Camp I felt nauseous. It was common for me to feel nauseous at altitude, so it wasn’t surprising when I threw up at camp. Chunga came over and rubbed my back. I wanted him to leave me alone but the comfort of his touch was reassuring. “This is completely normal for today,” he told me. “You will feel better soon.” He sounded confident but nobody else was having the same problem. I hoped he was right.

Our gear was soaked and we quickly crawled into our tents to put on dry clothes. Frustration started to show for the first time in three days. What if it rained the whole seven days? After a short discussion on how to keep our gear dry, I took a nap to sleep off the nausea.

The incredibly hard working porters

When King Rama announced dinner everyone appeared refreshed and dry. Chunga was right – I felt much better after a nap. Still, at the recommendation of the doctor we increased our Diamox dose to two pills instead of one. After dinner the guides asked their usual question of “How much water did you drink today?” The look of disappointment spread across their faces when again, only two people had drank three liters. “Tomorrow everyone will finish three liters,” Chunga said definitively.

Day 4 Barranco Camp to Karanga Camp

12,992ft to 13,107ft

Once again the morning was crystal clear. Uhuru Peak was so close we could almost touch it! Today, the trail meandered up Great Barranco Wall, a giant rocky cliff. There would be lots of scrambling on this seemingly short 3.4 mile day.

Scrambling up steep rocks can be enjoyable for some and horrifying to others. Climbing Great Barranco Wall was the most difficult section for one person in our group, but very fun for me personally. It was slow going but the views were awesome, and the new terrain was exciting.

Can you see the colorful dots of people?

The day had hardly begun when the usual mass of clouds made its way up Kilimanjaro. According to the guides it wasn’t forecast to rain until later that day, but it started to rain an hour into the hike. The slippery, wet rocks made the pace slow to a crawl.

Mild relief swept through the group as we reached the top of Great Burranco Wall. The climb was over, but the wind blew strong and it was a cold day indeed. Although it felt like we had climbed for hours we had barely put a dent in the mileage. There were still three miles to go.

The rain never stopped and at one point it rained horizontally. The cold wind blasted my face and the rain soaked every inch of me. This was the fourth straight day of rain, and even those with heavy-duty rain gear were drenched. Our enthusiasm and energy plummeted.

Summit night was getting closer and it would be a cold, six hour hike to the peak. What if our gear was wet? What if it rained the entire summit day? If this happened, not only would everyone be miserable, but there would be a good chance of hypothermia.

The trail went into a steep valley. It was incredibly muddy and most everyone in our group slipped and fell. Confidence was low, and when we arrived at Karanga Camp we were a group of wet, depressed rats. Every piece of clothing was wet except (thank goodness!) my shoes and socks. Rain jacket, rain pants, beanie, gloves, wool sweater, base layer, long underwear, underwear, and bra were all soaking wet. As we crawled into the tents everyone wondered the same thing – what if our clothes were still wet on summit night?

We curled into our sleeping bags for warmth. King Rama announced tea time but nobody left the comfort of their dry sleeping bag. Later, he announced dinner time. Grudgingly, I put on semi-dry clothes and ran to the mess tent in the rain. Only a few of us showed up for dinner, but King Rama eventually convinced everyone to come. “He literally grabbed my ankle and pulled me out of the tent saying ‘There is no dinner without you.’ How can I resist that?”

We slurped down hot soup and ate as much as we could. As usual, King Rama looked at our leftovers with a scowl. “You must eat everything,” he told us. But we were so tired of eating three meals a day that we could not eat anymore.

As usual, the guides came into the mess tent after dinner, but this time they had a big cake! It was someone’s birthday and they had carried an entire cake up the mountain. The cake was huge, and as pieces of frosted goodness were passed around camp the mood lifted. After eating and singing, Chunga looked at us and said, “You need a team name. Do you have one yet?” We discussed some options and dubbed ourselves “Team Marafiki,” which means “Team Friends” in Swahili.

Day 5 Karanga Camp to Barafu Camp

13,107ft to 15,331ft

As usual, the morning was lovely and Uhuru Peak stood confidently in front of us. We covered every available tent and guyline with our wet gear, hoping it would dry. Thankfully, the porters let us leave gear behind until they broke down camp. This could be our only chance to dry it out before summit night!

This short, two mile day crosses desolate terrain that looks like the surface of Mars. Although there was two thousand feet of elevation gain this was the easiest day so far. And it didn’t rain! The sunshine put a smile on everyone’s face. “Looking good!” Chunga yelled to us. “Feeling good!” We yelled enthusiastically back.

The top of Kilimanjaro hiding in the clouds

The day went by fast and Barafu Camp appeared in no time. The porters passed back the wet gear we had left out, and everything was dry! We were incredibly relieved to have dry gear for summit night. Daudi lifted our spirits even higher when he said “Many groups turned back yesterday because of the rain, but it’s forecast to be a good day tomorrow.”

The afternoon consisted of naps and last-minute gear adjustments. It was a gorgeous day at base camp, and although the clouds covered Uhuru Peak, Mawenzi Peak stood tall and beautiful. We gorged ourselves on dinner, but King Rama still gave us an exasperated look when he saw our uneaten food. “King Rama,” we cried, “we literally cannot eat anymore.”

The final trail to Uhuru Peak is up the ridge

Hijab, Daudi, and Chunga came into the mess tent to prepare us for summit night. Although most groups left for summit at midnight, our group was famously slow. We would leave at 1:00am so the trail would be empty. “How much water did you drink?” Daudi asked us. There was applause when everyone said they had drank three liters of water. Chunga smiled and said, “Very good. This is the most important day to finish all three liters.”

Our guide Chunga

Day 6 Barafu Camp to Uhuru Peak to Millennium Camp (High Camp)

15,331ft to 19,341ft to 12,959ft

During the night we woke up in a panic to the sound of rain. “Rain?!” I said aloud. “We’re going to be wet the whole time!” After some nervous chatter we fell back asleep and woke up at 12:30am for summit night. As we crawled out of the tent there was a cry of joy. “It’s not rain, it’s snow!” A wave of relief came over us. Not only was it snow, but the stars were shining and there wasn’t a cloud in sight.

There were 8.3 miles total on summit day, and the first six hours were all uphill. The trail was immediately steep. The group went even slower than usual because snow had made the rocks slippery.

After a mile the trail went up a ridge and suddenly the wind struck hard. It penetrated every layer of clothing. My nose ran nonstop as the wind whipped past my face, piercing through my scarf. There was nothing I could do but let the snot continuously run down my chin. Thankfully the heating pads in my gloves kept my fingers warm, but the foot warmers weren’t working. I wiggled my toes to keep frostbite away.

Despite the wind and cold my spirits were high. I had no symptoms of altitude sickness, my body was just warm enough, and the sunrise was incredible. When the sunlight scattered around us it felt like being on top of the world. We weren’t just gasping for air, we were gasping at the beauty of it all.

Sunrise over Mawenzi Peak

The group eventually split up as everyone climbed at different speeds. One member of our group fell behind early on and eventually disappeared from view. Everyone else could see each other, but walked in scattered pairs.

After sunrise people started coming back down the mountain without ever making it to the top. Some of these hikers could walk by themselves and some were supported by guides due to serious symptoms of altitude. The scary prospect of having to turn around after so much effort made us feel better about our snail’s pace. After all, the slower you go the better chance of summiting Kilimanjaro.

Stella Point is 18,829 feet high. It’s the first time hikers have a view of their destination – the top of Kilimanjaro. I was about 30 minutes from Stella Point when the trail got very steep, and every ounce of energy I had just fizzled out. Instead of taking one step every 5 seconds I was taking one step every 20 seconds.

After ten excruciatingly slow minutes I gave up. “There is no shame in turning around,” I told myself. Out of nowhere the summit guide appeared and asked how I was doing. “I’m so tired,” I told him, slurring my words a little. He took my hand and said “Let’s go.” We marched along and he held my hand the entire way to Stella Point. The end was finally in sight!

After a small break we continued on, hand-in-hand. This entire section is a blur, but it’s hard to forget the discomforts. The air was so dry my throat and lungs felt like sand paper. The wind threatened to push us off the trail with every step, and I could feel the sting of windburn on my face. There was a pool of snot on my scarf from my runny nose. Despite all of this, I wasn’t sick or hurt. It was just one foot in front of the other, hand in hand, on the home stretch to Uhuru Peak.

Some hikers fared better than others as everyone made their final push to Uhuru Peak. I turned to look at my guide’s face so I could ignore someone throwing up on the trail. At some point we passed three of my friends (although I don’t remember this), and I managed to be the third person in the group to summit. The amazing summit guide had literally dragged me to the top of Kilimanjaro.

In all seriousness, I never expected to make it to the top. Tears welled up in my eyes as I embraced the guide. The two fastest members of our group pounced on me with hugs, and suddenly an excited energy flowed around us. As we waited for the rest of the group I gazed into the icy caldera in stunned amazement. Unbelievably, I had made it!

We had lucked out – four days of rain had given us a perfectly clear day to summit Kilimanjaro. The wind brought the temperature down to -20F, but wind is always better than rain. The views were incredible. Gazing upwards, the clouds whipped overhead at incredible speeds. “I wonder what this would be like on acid.” I said casually. “We may as well be on acid,” someone replied.

Six out of the seven in our group were on top of Kilimanjaro. After many hugs and cheers we took one last look around and headed back. About half way to Stella Point we ran into the seventh member of our party. “Team Marafiki!” we yelled in excitement. After even more hugging the guides urged us onward. All seven of us would all make it to the top.

The hike down takes half as long as the way up. At Stella Point the guides brought out thermoses and poured us hot ginger tea. We cheered to our success and to the wonderful guides. The trail down is a slightly different route from the trail going up. It’s covered in skree – slippery shards of rock. The best way to go down skree is to “ski” down the mountainside, which is what we did.

After an hour of skiing alone a group of porters met up with us. They took our backpacks and linked arms with each person. The man who linked arms with me was a “skiing master,” and we skied down the trail together at great speeds. It was tons of fun.

At camp the other porters rushed over to help take off boots, gators, and jackets. King Rama gave us hugs and forced juice into our hands. I had never felt such a mix of emotions at one time: energy, exhaustion, excitement, and sadness that the adventure was almost over. Eventually everyone was back at camp, and we told our individual stories of summiting Kilimanjaro over lunch.

After lunch it was time to hike another hour and a half to Millennium Camp. Energy was high but legs were sore, and our group went at the fastest slow pace we could manage. The altitude had affected everyone differently, and although many of us felt good, one person kept dry-heaving and another had been nauseous for several hours. Still, we reached camp in good time, and just before it started to rain.

Day 7 Millennium Camp to Mweka Park Gate

12,959ft to 5,348ft

Apart from sore muscles everyone felt normal in the morning. After breakfast we tipped the 24 amazing people who had helped us up the mountain. While we passed out tips they treated us to one more round of song and dance. They really were superheros.

The last day was 7.5 miles downhill, and sore legs made it more difficult than it should have been. We were slow as molasses because the rain had once again made things slippery. As we walked into the rain forest it started to rain, but we didn’t care. The hard part was over.

We were the last ones off the mountain and Mweka Park Gate was a ghost town. King Rama greeted us with beer and directed us to a boot washing station. The adventure up Kilimanjaro was officially over when I entered my name into the log book one last time.

Hiking gear is difficult to get in Tanzania so I gave Chunga my gators and a large dry bag. It makes me smile knowing that my gators could be on Kilimanjaro right now. The people who helped us up the mountain were truly incredible and they deserve every bit of support we can give them.

The Close to this Adventure

We piled into the van and drove a short distance to lunch. King Rama appeared one last time and presented our favorite dish – pasta quiche. Chunga drank a beer while Daudi showed us pictures of his new baby. These guys had become part of the family.

On the way back to the hotel we sang “The Kilimanjaro Song” for one last time. As opposed to the quiet van on the way to the mountain, the journey back was full of song and laughter. It was bittersweet to say goodbye but this was an adventure – and a group of people – that I will never forget.