Hawaii is known for being a tropical paradise complete with palm trees, turquoise waters, and volcanic scenery. For a shock of nature unlike anywhere else in the world plan a trip to the Na Pali Coast on Kauai. Dramatic green ridges plunge into the crystal blue Pacific Ocean. Sandy beaches speckle the coast as waterfalls hide in the valleys. While there are easier ways to see the Na Pali Coast, those who dream of adventure should hike the Kalalau Trail.
Getting to Kauai is the hard part. From Lihue Airport it takes a little over an hour to drive to the trail head. Drive 56 North and 560 West to the end of the road. Park at Ha’ena State Park (do not leave valuables in the car) and start hiking. The Kalalau Trail is 11 miles one-way and rated as difficult. Permits are required when hiking past Hanakapi‘ai Beach and cost $20 per person. Along the way there are breathtaking views, fun side trips, and scary sheer cliffs.
Note: As of September 2018 Kalalau Trail is closed due to flood damage.
Day 1 – Morning
Arrive at sunrise to beat the crowds and the heat. On top of the first hill you will be immediately rewarded with a view of Ha’ena Beach. It’s just a taste of the beautiful views to come. Although the morning began partly cloudy the forecast warned of a hot day. Keep this is mind because while the first half of the hike is partly shaded the second half has no shade at all. The hot Hawaiian climate can make the second half of Kalalau Trial strenuous.
Hanakapi‘ai Beach is only two miles into Kalalau Trail. Be careful because this beach is unforgiving! There is an ominous sign counting how many people have died in the surf, so do not attempt to swim no matter how inviting the water looks. There is a wide river crossing here but large rocks make it easy to cross. This is the first of many places along the trail to refill water.
834 people have died!
Hiking further than Hanakapi‘ai Beach requires an overnight permit. The next part of the trail wanders through lush vegetation with plenty of shade. Don’t let the tropical paradise fool you though, because this is where the switchbacks and significant elevation change begins. It feels like a roller coaster ride as the trail weaves through ridges and valleys. It can be muddy so wear sturdy footwear.
Day 1 – Afternoon
Six miles in is Hanakoa Campground, which has bathrooms and lots of shade. We hiked through the campground during a nudist yoga session, so if that’s what you’re into don’t bring pants. Be prepared to see lots of bare bums on the trail because nudists are common.
Now the real fun begins – Crawler’s Ledge! This part of the trail is unshaded, hot, and incredibly close to the cliff’s edge. It’s scary looking down, so if you’re afraid of heights it might not be the best hike for you. After this section and you will be rewarded with a great view of the Na Pali Coast.
At this point you’re on the home stretch and the trail is completely different from anything earlier. There is one more scrambling climb before the final ascent into the valley begins. We quickened our pace after spotting a developing storm cloud in the distance, but weren’t fast enough. During the last two miles it began to rain and became very slippery. We skied downhill in the mud and the dark red dirt stuck to our boots. It was a mixture of nerve-racking excitement and fun.
It was 3pm when Kalalau Beach came into view. The rain was relentless! We walked through the campground trying to pick a site but the weather made us lethargic. There was an old shelter with an awning huddled against the hillside. Tired from hike, we scrunched up our jackets for pillows and napped until the rain finally stopped.
Day 1 – Evening
We found a nice campsite under some trees with a lovely view of the beach. There were lots of campers – many of which had been there for a long time. Our neighbors warned us that people living in the valley regularly come to steal people’s stuff: passports, sleeping bags, stoves, you name it. Thankful for the advice, we brought our valuables with us and left to explore Kalalau beach.
On the beach the views are incredible! To the north the ocean sparkles with a perfect blue hue. To the south dark green ridges plunge down into the forest where our tents are hiding. As if it couldn’t get any better, there is even a waterfall.
A little ways down the beach there is a large cave perfect for watching the sunset. We got lucky and the storm clouds slowly rolled away just in time to see the sun go down. Bring some wine and cheese and it will be the most romantic camping dinner you will ever have.
Day 2 – The Way Back
It was going to be another hot day so we woke up at sunrise. The rain from yesterday made the first two miles difficult. It was an uphill scramble through slippery mud. There were adorable goats grazing on the hillside, motivating us to keep going.
Back at Hanakoa Campground we turned inland to Hanakoa Falls. There are two waterfall side trips on Kalaua Trail: Hanakoa and Hanakapi‘ai. Hanakapi‘ai Falls is bigger and more popular so we opted for the less-trafficked Hanakoa Falls.
The turn-off to Hanakoa Falls
The side trip to Hanakoa Falls is approximately one mile and the trail is not well traveled or maintained. The amount of growth made the trail difficult to follow and there were spider webs everywhere! If you are scared of spiders make someone else go first.
The setting at the falls was glorious and we had the whole place to ourselves. I stripped off my clothes and jumped in the water for a quick wash. It felt wonderful, especially waving at the sightseeing helicopters flying overhead.
The last two miles past Hanakapi‘ai Beach were difficult. The heat mixed with the mass of day hikers sucked the motivation out of me. Thankfully my patient hiking buddy encouraged me for a successful finish. Back at Ha’ena Beach we cooled off at the public showers and bought a fresh coconut for refreshment.
Hiking Kalalau Trail is exciting from start to finish. Everything changes, from the elevation to scenery to weather. Both the journey and the destination are incredible and well worth the challenge.
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