Known for its beautiful coastline and pristine beaches, Wilsons Promontory is one National Park you don’t want to miss. I had my chance to go in November, which isn’t quite peak season and the forecast showed nothing but rain. After checking the weather every day for two weeks I finally got my sunny 3-day window. Just enough time for a short backpacking trip.
Cotter’s Beach
Before I began my hike I had to pick up my overnight permit at the visitor’s center. It doesn’t open until 8:30, so I drove to Wilsons Promontory much earlier to make the most of my time. I entered the park at 6:30am and turned at the first opportunity, which was Cotter’s Beach. During the drive to the parking lot I saw many wallabies enjoying their breakfast.
The walk to Cotter’s Beach is an enjoyable 1km stroll full of croaking frogs and crickets. There is no shade, so I’d suggest a hat and sunscreen on a sunny day. The beach looks out over a perfectly blue ocean scattered with islands in the distance. It’s a very peaceful place to sit and watch the waves.
Whiskey Bay
Sadly there is no Whiskey at Whiskey Bay, but there is a beach! The short walk leads you to a small cove full of seagulls and huge boulders. The boulders surrounding the cove are covered in a pretty orange hue. I enjoyed staring at the wispy clouds and watching the seagulls bicker over pieces of kelp.
Picnic Bay
The path to Whiskey Bay continues to a gorgeous lookout over Picnic Bay. The waves at Picnic Bay were impressive and one lone surfer was taking advantage. He was just a tiny dot in the gorgeous panorama of ocean and I watched him take wave after wave. He, like me, had the place entirely to himself and was enjoying every minute of it.
Telegraph Saddle to Refuge Cove
Due to incoming thunderstorms I decided to camp for just one night on the trail. My options for campsites were limited because most of them were already booked (I was very last-minute). Thankfully Refuge Cove was still available and I reserved it. This worked out well because it makes a nice loop through rainforest, around the coast, and back to the carpark through a eucalyptus forest.
The trail steadily slopes down the entire way to Sealers Cove, a beautiful beach and campsite. The first part of the hike is through basic forest and it slowly becomes a thicker temperate rainforest. Ferns take over the canopy until the trail turns into raised boardwalk hovering above the mud. Muddy rainforest then turns into flat-out swamp but thankfully the trail is well maintained so it’s easy to stay dry.
The swamp eventually ends and the trail breaks open at Sealers Cove. This beautiful beach screamed at me to stop for lunch and take a break. One of my favorite hiking past-times is lying against my backpack and dozing in the sun. It was still early in the afternoon so I took this opportunity to stretch out on the warm yellow sand and bask in sunny beach bliss.
It’s only a few kilometers to Refuge Cove from Sealers Cove, and on my way I met two locals from Melbourne. Since we were going to the same campsite we walked the rest of the way together. They were an entertaining pair and kept me company for the rest of the trip.
Soon enough we made it to camp and hung out at the beach for the rest of the afternoon. I made fun of the way my new friends said “so,” and they made fun of the way I said “avocado.” We learned a lot about each other’s cultures and habits, and had fun giving one another a hard time.
Someone even sailed their catamaran into the bay and we watched the crew with envy until it was time for dinner. After plenty of food and laughter I bid my new friends goodnight and went to sleep.
In the middle of the night I heard something rummage through my backpack. Confused, I unzipped the tent and shined a light outside. A mysterious critter had unzipped my pack and found a bag of trailmix. He was sitting on top of the table happily munching away. I tried to scare him off but he didn’t move until I stood up, at which point he ran up a tree with my entire bag of trail mix. I spent the rest of the night listening to the crinkling of plastic and the gnawing of my precious snack.
Refuge Cove to Telegraph Saddle
The next morning I woke up early specifically to start hiking before my new friends. They were younger and much more fit than I was, and I knew they could easily catch up with me after a few kilometers. However, they woke up, quickly made breakfast, and were ready to leave exactly when I was.
They began a brisk walk right out of the gate and my muscles never had a chance to warm up. I tried my best to keep up with them, and they were kind enough to slow down for me (although with a few heckles).
The trail climbs to Kersops Peak where there are great views of the ocean and forest. Then it slopes back down and winds along the gorgeous coastline of Wilsons Promontory. We made good time and took a long break looking out over Waterloo Bay. My friends had gummy worms for lunch and I was amazed at how slender the early-20 year old’s were. If only I had that kind of metabolism!
After the break it was finally time to turn inland and away from the coast. The trail is a bit muddy to start but soon begins to climb up a nice sandy path. From here the views back towards Waterloo Bay are stunning, especially on a day as beautiful as ours. The rest of the way to Telegraph Junction slopes downhill and is easy going.
The last section to Telegraph Saddle (the finish) is the hardest part of the hike because it’s nothing but uphill. It’s a steep, boring gravel road that is nothing like the rest of the trail. I tried as best I could to keep up with my young companions, but their batteries were still charging as mine was running low. About half way up the hill they got antsy and hiked on while I took another break.
Walking alone up this steep path was a welcome break from trying to keep up with the guys. I took my time and unknowingly took another break just before the end. As I rounded the last corner my two friends were waiting for me, applauding the last steps of my hike. Woohoo I made it!
My time at Wilson’s Promontory was short but I’m extremely glad I went. The coastline is stunning and it’s a special treat on a sunny day. Sadly I will probably never see my energetic hiking buddies again, but it goes to show that when you travel by yourself you rarely travel alone.
Interested in Visiting Wilsons Promontory?
This National Park is 200km east of Melbourne. Many tour companies offer 1-2 day trips here. Renting a car is also a viable option because it won’t break the bank. As usual, I recommend doing an overnight hike, but if that is not an option, at least a half-day hike. While the sights on the main road are beautiful I certainly saw the best places while hiking. Also, I did not get a chance to hike the north end of the park, but some little birdies told me it’s even better than the south end.
Book your campsites online if you plan to walk overnight. I would recommend booking at least two weeks in advance though, as I waited until the last minute and had limited options. However, weather here can be unpredictable in the off-season, so you may book your hike during a thunderstorm.
Remember to pick up your permit at the visitors center before you start because you get a parking permit for the trailhead parking lot. That way you won’t have to take the shuttle, although you may be required to take the shuttle on a busy weekend. I found the over-night camping process easy and straight forward at Wilsons Promontory, so hopefully you won’t run into any problems.
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