Looking back at my first backpacking trip I have to laugh. My partner at the time was an avid backpacker and he was long overdue for an overnight trip. After much planning on his part and many eager nods from me, we found ourselves in Glacier National Park. I wore old tennis shoes and slept in a four pound sleeping bag from Target. I had a brand new Deuter 45+10 Backpack from REI, and had no idea how to use a camp stove. My base-weight today is 21 pounds, but it was probably closer to 35 pounds on this trip. But you have to start somewhere, right?
I felt so badass during the planning stage. Roughing it in the wilderness, eating freeze dried meals with tiny spoons, filtering river water… I couldn’t wait! Camping was a big part of my childhood and I had been hiking regularly for a year. Backpacking was just the next step of my outdoor life. My partner planned every part of the trip, graciously checked my gear to make sure I wasn’t packing unnecessarily, and that was that.
Glacier National Park
We flew into Calgary on a beautiful sunny morning and drove three hours to Glacier National Park. Driving into the park was unforgettable because everything was so natural and raw. Going-To-The-Sun Road provided breathtaking views that only got better. To this day, Glacier is my favorite national park.
The first thing we did was acquire a backcountry permit. At the ranger station we watched an educational video about bears, leave no trace, and where to poop. Then a ranger helped us pick the best backpacking route available. The plan was to start at Loop Trail Trailhead, hike to Goat Haunt Campground, and loop around through Fifty Mountain Campground, back to Loop Trail Trailhead.
Day 1 – Flattop Campground
Loop Trail Trailhead is directly off Going-To-The-Sun Road. After parking we shouldered our packs and I began my very first backpacking trip. The problems started just one mile in because the back plate of my new Deuter backpack was stabbing my spine. I tried to ignore it, but after a mile of pain I threw my pack down in frustration. After several failed attempts to adjust the back plate I angrily slammed my fist down as hard as I could. Success!
It was a hot day, and due to recent forest fires there was little shade. I walked along in my own little world trying to ignore the heat. This was my first huge backpacking mistake. Suddenly, the world around me was strikingly bright. It felt like I was being interrogated under a spot light. I couldn’t see so I grasped at anything around me, trying to get low to the ground. My partner rushed over and realized something was seriously wrong.
Although I was clueless at the time, this would be my first encounter with heat stroke. My vision slowly returned as my partner poured water over my head and made me drink. I slowly started to realize just how terrible I felt. This was a huge backpacking lesson for me, and my first backpacking tip for you – always focus on how you feel during a hike. Do not ignore what your body is trying to tell you.
After a long break I felt strong enough to walk again. My partner carried both packs. We went a few steps and took a break. Several more steps and another break. After a while, I was finally ready to carry my own pack. Before we continued there was a serious conversation about going back. My stubbornness told me to continue because the campsite was closer than the parking lot. A few minutes later it started to rain. When the rain turned to hail I started laughing. Ironic that just an hour before I was suffering from heat stroke.
We picked up the pace and made it to camp by late afternoon. Someone had set up a tarp over the camp kitchen and we chatted with fellow hikers while it rained. Once the rain stopped we set up our tent, made dinner, and went to bed. What a day it had been!
This was the beginning of four very cold nights on the trail. In fact, I had always assumed backpacking would be cold until I splurged on “Caterpillar”- a Western Mountaineering 10 degree down sleeping bag. But until I bought Caterpillar, I learned that the best way to warm up in the morning is to start walking.
Day 2 – Goat Haunt Campground
This was the most difficult day with 17.4 miles and lots of elevation change. After a cold night my motivation was low. Grudgingly, I started to walk, but I still remember how wonderful it felt to have the first rays of sun on my face. That’s when I had my first “moment.” That moment when you’re surrounded by incredible nature, getting further away from civilization with every step.
A few miles into the day we saw a grizzly bear – a giant brown mass lumbering through a meadow full of flowers. We were close enough to see him clearly, but far enough away that we felt comfortable. He rumbled through the meadow, lumbered over logs, and gnawed at the grass enthusiastically.
I have a vivid memory of this day hiking along a windy trail through a bright green, beautiful field. That moment is what I had imagined backpacking would be like. Weather, nature, and wildlife surrounding me entirely.
Taking a break to read and rest our feet
We had to reach Goat Haunt Campground, right next to Upper Waterton Lake near Canada. It’s the least-used border between the US and Canada, and the location of our next campsite. Although it already seemed like a long day, we had barely put a dent in the 17.5 miles. We stopped to have lunch where the trail skirted the edge of a huge valley. A marmot yelled at us to keep our distance while dark, ominous clouds crept over the mountains towards the valley.
We were in for bad weather. The park ranger had warned us “there is always a 20% chance of rain in the forecast.” To this day I keep that saying close to my heart. We were laying in the sun like lizards through lunch, and a moment later the rain was coming down hard.
The rain pelted us for hours as we continued down into the valley. The switchbacks were never ending, and the occasional foot-slip made us tread carefully. At one point my partner lost his footing and slid several feet down the cliff’s edge. After what seemed like an eternity we stumbled into a shelter on the valley floor. The rain stopped right as we closed the door to the shelter behind us.
Tired and wet, we took a long break to boost morale. When the sun came out we hung our wet gear on any sunny branch we could find. As I stood in the sun with my eyes closed, butterflies landed on my orange shirt. Little things like this make all the difference.
Another wilderness lesson is that rain, followed by sunshine, often leads to mosquitoes. No sooner had we started walking when the mosquitoes were out in full force. At that time I did not have a mosquito net or bug spray; now I always carry both. I have never had so many mosquito bites on my body as I did that day.
We walked as fast as possible until the mosquitoes were finally behind us. I couldn’t remember my feet having ever hurt so much. Goat Haunt eventually came into view, but we hardly noticed its beauty. We immediately set up camp, slipped off our damp clothes, and crawled into our sleeping bags. I yearned for a good night’s sleep, but the itching from my numerous mosquito bites made for a restless night.
Day 3 – Kootenai Lakes Campground
We finally took the time to explore our surroundings the next morning. The mountains were beautiful and the sun was shining without a cloud in the sky. I waddled like a penguin down to the lake and put my sore feet into the frigid water. Being surrounded by those mountains felt like the fanciest day spa. After a lazy morning it was finally time to get on with our quick three mile hike to Kootenai Lake Campground.
Kootenai Lake was rumored to be the best spot to see a moose. Seeing a moose had always been on my bucket list, so I started the day with a spring in my step. That spring quickly turned to lugging myself around with protesting muscles. Those three miles seemed to last a lifetime, but we eventually set up camp in a pretty spot right next to the Lake. Unfortunately there was little time for enjoyment because the mosquitoes came out in droves. After having no luck spotting a moose we zipped the tent door behind us and went to bed.
Day 4 – Fifty Mountain Campground
We had eight miles to go and they were all uphill – back up that giant valley we had descended into just two days before. My partner promised to go slow, and we took a two minute break at every switchback. As much as I hated hiking uphill, it was much more enjoyable than going down in the pouring rain. Plus we had nice views the whole time!
I was never good at going uphill, and even today I don’t relish it. Looking back on those switchbacks I wonder how quickly I’d go up them today. After hiking hundreds of mountains my body finally knows how to ascend efficiently. It’s probably making multiple minuscule adjustments I don’t even notice. I’m still thankful to my old partner for allowing me to go slow up those switch backs. I always try to afford new hikers the same patience he showed me. After all, you’re only as fast as the slowest one in the group.
I think of the picture above often. We went down the valley to the right, and one day I would like to take the trail to the left. The route is much longer, but I wonder what mysteries are on the other trail. We stood looking down at the valley for quite some time before moving on. Thankfully, Fifty Mountain Campground wasn’t far. The same marmot as before yelled at us as we went by. After such a long day we were happy to be at camp before dark, but we wasted no time eating and curling up to sleep. We had 16 miles to cover the next day.
Day 5 – Back to the Trailhead
The next morning we rolled out before sunrise. The clouds thickened as we followed the trail along a steep cliff. As the day crept on it got colder, but occasionally the clouds would part and there was a decent view of the surrounding mountains. The wind picked up and eventually it started raining. By lunch time I was the coldest I had ever been. The wind and rain was so cold that we skipped lunch just to keep the blood flowing.
You can see the trail in the distance on the far left.
I didn’t realize it at the time but we were hiking the Northern Highline Trail – the wilder version of the famous Highline Trail. At some point the wind finally died down and the rain turned into mist. We hiked fast to stay warm and eventually arrived at Granite Park Chalet. During our break the snacks came out but the sun did not. Thankfully it wasn’t as cold as it had been earlier. We took a long break and I had to use the toilet before continuing on. The little path led me to a pit toilet with no shelter, and to one of the most scenic bathroom views I’ve ever had.
Grumbling, we shouldered our packs and prepared for the last few miles. The sun started to shine and we felt motivated to finish strong. High spirits quickly vanished when the trail dropped into a steep incline. Leg muscles burning and feet aching, we trudged the last few miles like a pair of high speed turtles. We caught a glimpse of the car just as the trail led in the complete opposite direction for half a mile. After much grunting and groaning we made it to the trailhead in one piece.
You can see the parking lot!
Taking off your backpack for the last time literally feels like lifting the world off your shoulders – your own little backpacking world. When I finally put down my backpack I was tired, hungry, and hurting. I’ll admit this was not the most successful backpacking tripf, but I look back on it fondly. Even my partner admitted it was a tough hike, especially for a first timer.
Since this backpacking trip I have done dozens of overnighters. Even today, this trip presented me with the most obstacles, although Frenchman’s Camp in Tasmania is a close second. Still, for all the bad things that happened, my first backpacking trip in Glacier National Park was everything I hoped it would be. The raw nature got me hooked, and I’ve been backpacking ever since.
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