Atherton Tablelands Waterfall Circuit

After spending 4 days on a boat I was eager to stretch my legs, so I ventured up to the Atherton Tablelands. This is an area inland from Cairns known for its waterfalls, dairy, and farmlands. I was interested in exploring the area and doing the Waterfall Circuit Drive so I rented a car and took off! Well, not at the fastest speeds. This was my first time driving on the left side of the road and it took some getting used to. How hard could it be driving on some lazy country roads? Or as it turned out, some narrow, switch-back jungle roads. Thankfully the drive was only an hour and a half long. I guess that’s one way to learn.

As I gained elevation it thankfully cooled off, but it was also a rainy day. That wasn’t going to stop me! My first stop was Lake Eacham, one of the two crater lakes in the Tablelands. Originally I didn’t plan to stop here, but the sign said it was only 2 km away and I couldn’t resist. Driving up to the lake reminded me of the jeep scene in Jurassic Park. I was expecting Mr. T-Rex to come out at any second. (Must go faster!!!)

The lake was lovely. I walked up the main part of the boardwalk and enjoyed the view. Even though it was cloudy the lake was still nice to look at. The water was very clear and there were even some divers getting in the water. I wonder what there was to see? Just watch out for the (one) crocodile!

After unsuccessfully searching for said crocodile I continued my drive to the waterfalls. I didn’t have far to drive and I quickly arrived at Milla Milla. It was a very short walk to the waterfall, and it was certainly beautiful. It started to drizzle and surprisingly there were a few people in the water. Not surprisingly they kept squealing about how cold it was.

Milla Milla Waterfall is where they made a famous Herbal Essence ad, and one of the girls was flipping her hair over the water trying to recapture the image. I’ll admit it was fun watching them have such a good time, but I still didn’t want to get in. It started to rain harder so I ended my visit and drove to the next waterfall.

Zillie was next on the waterfall circuit. There was an intriguing view which motivated me to take the path to the bottom. The trail was muddy and slippery, and I caught up with 4 bikini-clad teenagers trying to walk down the trail in their flip flops. The two in the back were having a particularly hard time and I watched enthusiastically as one broke a flip flop and the other’s towel fell in the mud. On a particularly steep incline the girl in the back lost her balance and slipped. She slid down the trail and knocked the legs out from under her friend. A passerby tried to help her up, which ended with her falling and knocking over someone else. Needless to say we were all in a great fit of laughter by the time everyone was standing again.

When I finally got to the bottom there was enough room for me to find a peaceful little spot to myself. It started to rain hard and I timidly snapped a couple pictures before I put my camera away.

The walk back to the top was faster but much less humorous. I had one waterfall to go and I quickened my pace because the rain was finally starting to ease.

It wasn’t a far drive to Ellinjaa and the walk down only took 5 minutes. By the time I got to the bottom the sun peeked out and I enjoyed a few precious minutes of rays. I stood in the creek and tried to let the water wash off my mud-caked sandals from the previous waterfall. The chilly water felt great.

After finishing the waterfall circuit it was time for lunch. Atherton tablelands was famous for its dairy, and the guidebook recommended Mungalli Creek Dairy. It was a short 15 minute drive, but the roads were empty and I triple checked my map to make sure I was going the right way.

I ordered a local peppermint tea and the Plughman’s Lunch: Mungalli Creek cheeses, home-made chutney, off the bone leg ham, Mungalli Bio egg, toasted farmhouse bread, and Mungalli’s organic garden salad. Yes please! I grabbed the last table on their adorable little patio. Then I settled down with my tea and my book “All Things Bright and Beautiful,” which always took me on a roller coaster of laughter and tears. Shortly after I got comfortable it started pouring and people headed inside. I was tempted to follow but my tea was keeping me toasty enough.

When my lunch came it looked delicious and I dove in with gusto. Everything was as good as it looked, but I’m a tad embarrassed to say my favorite part was the salad. You could tell it came fresh from their garden. The feta sprinkled on top was outstanding and I even enjoyed the tomatoes (coming from me that means a lot). 

I stayed for over an hour, thoroughly enjoying myself. By the time I got up my plate and the restaurant were empty. It was time to take my adventure elsewhere and leave the Atherton Tablelands. I walked to the car and gazed over the dreary pastureland. Even the gloomy weather couldn’t keep my good mood away. Nice try weather!